BRING A 60' ROPE, A WETSUIT, & MAD RAPPELLING SKILLS
The Subway hike is a 10-mile wilderness trek through a canyon on the west side of Zion National Park in Utah. It is a picturesque canyon with waterfalls, crystal clear pools of water, and walls curved like the walls of a subway tunnel, with long straight slits running the length of the canyon floor, reminiscent of train tracks. Hence the name "The Subway."
Completing The Subway Top Down approach requires route-finding experience, hiking, swimming through very cold water (43 degrees while I was there), down-climbing, three short rappels (up to 30 ft), and a sense of adventure. Plus, you need to be self-sufficient; commercial guides are NOT allowed on the trail, so your gear, planning, and safety is your responsibility.
To complete the trek, you need to apply for and win a lottery for one of just 80 permits granted daily, then pray for no rain that day.
I was super lucky and won the permit lottery for 1 May 2021. And, despite strongly worded advice from friends to the contrary, I did the Top Down approach.
Solo.
It was epic.
This entire blog post is dedicated to preparing for and packing for The Subway Top Down approach, especially if you are a beginner. I am not an expert canyoneer but I did a TON of research, took my time, focused, paid painful attention to detail, and was able to do this by myself. Certainly it is better to go with someone from a safety perspective; I highlight the fact that I did this solo only to underscore the fact that you CAN do this, but only if you prepare.
The rest of this blog outlines in detail everything I did to prepare for The Subway. I hope it helps you out. If you are lucky enough to get a permit and have any questions, hit me up in the info request form at the bottom of the page. Happy to answer any questions you have as you prep. And I would love to hear about your experience as well!
Step 1: Apply for a Permit
To hike The Subway, you have to win one of 80 permits granted daily.
To apply for a permit, you need to visit the Subway Permits page of the National Park Service. You can choose 2-months in advance, 1-month in advance, or a last-minute drawing 2-7 days in advance. Then select "Left Fork North Creek (Subway)" and your preferred dates. There is a $15 fee to apply (as of Aug 2023).
I highly recommend the 2- or 1-month advance option to ensure you have enough time to prepare. I chose the 1-month advance lottery application option because that was the only timing that matched when I would be in the Zion area. I chose May 1, 2, 3, in that order of preference.
Step 2: Win the Permit
You will be notified by email about the results of the lottery.
I first received an email saying I was NOT selected. I thought, well, bummer, but I guess this means I can do other things instead of figuring out how to do The Subway. I crossed it off my list of things to do in Southern Utah.
Then, a few days later, I got an email with subject line: Zion Advanced Lottery Correction for May 2021. It read:
There was an error in the Zion Wilderness Advanced Lottery held on April 5, 2021. The good news, your name was selected for a Left Fork North Creek (Subway) resource area trip date for May 1, 2021 for 1 person.
OH MY GOSH!!! Things just got real. I get to do The Subway!!
The email you receive and the subsequent reminder emails all urge you to notify the National Park Service right away if you are unable to use your permit or have a reduction in the number of people in your party. Please do this as a courtesy to all the dejected people who lost. I am convinced this is how I was able to win - that someone reduced their party size by one, and because I was (likely) one of the few parties of one, the permit was awarded to me.
Ok, here we go. Let the planning begin!
Step 3: Choose How to Hike The Subway
There are two ways to hike The Subway: Bottom Up or Top Down.
Bottom Up
The first way is called "The Bottom Up" approach. You park at the Left Fork Trailhead and this is where your hike both starts and ends. This approach is for regular old hikers with regular old hiking gear.
To complete the course, you hike down the face of a cliff into the canyon, then follow Left Fork North Creek halfway up the route in the map above, traversing the creek several times, and climbing over and around the rocks that pepper the entire canyon, until you enter a slot canyon that narrows to the part called The Subway. You will see a steep cliff ahead of you and hear a waterfall roaring down somewhere behind it, filling the pools of water before you with crystal clear water. It is beautiful.
Then you turn around and go back.
Top Down
The second way is called "The Top Down" approach and this is epic. You park at the Left Fork Trailhead with the Bottom Up people, catch a ride to Wildcat Canyon Trailhead at the top of the canyon, and make your way down the canyon back to the Left Fork Trailhead where you left your car.
You will swim through pools, rappel over boulders and down waterfalls, wind through canyons, and duck through arches. And then you come to a roaring waterfall. You will rappel down a 30 ft cliff into a pool of water and, making your way through water-formed "rooms," wade through pools of crystal clear water back to the waterfall -- the same waterfall the Bottom Up people will hear, but never see.
This approach requires GPS, a wetsuit, rope, a harness, and your permit to hike, swim, and rappel your way back to the car. The strenuous route is 9.5-10 miles long and takes 6-10 hours to complete.
Did I mention EPIC?!
My Decision to do the Top Down Approach
When I got notice that I won the permit lottery, I was instantly excited and nervous. I decided right away that if I was going to hike The Subway, I was going to do the Top Down approach because when would I have this opportunity again? I had a lot of research and planning and learning to do and, worst case scenario, if it all became too overwhelming, I could wimp out at the last minute and just do the Bottom Up approach. Either way, I was going to use my permit.
My Canyoneering Experience
I am definitely a beginner at canyoneering. I'm going to share my experience prior to the Subway to help you gauge your abilities.
I am an avid hiker and I've logged probably 1/3 to 1/2 of my miles solo. I live in Virginia, so most of my hiking is local and at sea level, but I've also done more adventurous hiking in Patagonia (both in Chile and Argentina), the Swiss Alps, Iceland, Siberia, California, and Colorado. I can read hiking trails. I'm decent at directions. And I have AllTrails Pro that makes navigating via GPS super easy.
I am not a turtle, so I don't carry my house (tent) on my back or sleep outdoors. I love hiking, but I also love a hot shower and a comfortable, mosquito-free bed, so getting back to civilization safely and before dark is always my first priority on a hike. I mention this to illustrate that I can stay alive in the wilderness during the day, but my ability to survive outdoors at night is untested and likely dismal.
I have canyoneered exactly one time on a tour in Switzerland. This experience gives me a terrific frame of reference, as in, I've done everything you're required to do in The Subway, but never on my own. The tour guides did everything for me - handed me equipment, told me when and how to put it on, carried the ropes, belayed me, and even fed me. So I am fully aware that I have no idea how to do any of these things solo. This is where the research part is so critical. But at least I have context to better understand what I am learning.
Here are some photos of my canyoneering experience to give you an idea of what we did ... rappelling down a 150' cliff, ziplining, cliff jumping, swimming ... definitely removes the intimidation factor of canyoneering! (And kudos to Tiffany and Kris for making this happen!)
I can swim, but am not a strong swimmer. I can float well enough to stay alive and get back to shore. But if there are strong currents (translation: ANY currents), the water will definitely be the boss of me.
I am not a climber. I've been attached to ropes on a vertical surface exactly three times. First, one time half-way up a climbing wall in Wisconsin Dells, with an employee belaying. Second, on several walls in a climbing gym in Virginia with friends belaying. Third, on my canyoneering trip in Switzerland, I rappelled down a 150' cliff into the canyon, again with someone belaying. None of these give me the experience I need to rappel in The Subway on my own, but they DO give me confidence that I've done it before, have some basic knowledge, and that I won't freak out as I go over the edge.
This rest of this blog post will share how to prepare for, pack for, and hike The Subway Top Down approach ... all from the perspective of a beginner at canyoneering.
Step 4: Research. Research. Research.
I cannot emphasize enough how critical it is to do your research before attempting The Subway Top Down. I completed the course solo and it was awesome! It certainly required focus and attention to detail, and none of it was overwhelming or scary ... but that's because I researched, researched, researched!
But face it: canyoneering alone is probably not the smartest idea. My friend, Deb, has been all over the world and has done every adventure sport there is to do. Even she says it's a dumb idea.
Joking aside, canyoneering solo or with other(s) requires extensive preparation. I'm going to share the resources I used to prepare for The Subway Top Down in hopes that they are helpful to you also. Again, if you have questions, hit me up through the request form at the bottom of the page. Happy to share the little that I know! :)
Rappel vs Repel
Ok, so you don't technically need to know this. Good spelling provides ZERO value on the trail, but 100% value before and after your hike when you explain to your friends what you are about to do or just did. It's worth 10 seconds to learn the difference.
Rappel is to descend a near-vertical surface by using a doubled rope coiled around the body and fixed at a higher point. This is what you are going to do.
Repel is to drive or force away. You will do this on the trail only if you see a bear.
Some of my homophone-challenged friends questioned my ability to repel. I have never encountered a bear on a trail, so I am unproven at repelling in that scenario. But 100% effective at repelling in my dating life. :)
Ok, let's move on to things that matter ON the trail.
Quick Facts about The Subway Top Down Trail
Guides: Professional guide services are not permitted on this adventure.
Technical Rating: The Subway has an ACA rating of 3B III. This means intermediate canyoneering with rope required for rappelling, swimming in water with no current, and it takes most of a day to complete.
Length: The route is 9.5 - 10 miles long.
Route Description: The trail is roughly broken into thirds. The first part is a 1,000 foot descent into Russell Gulch. Then a gradual 1,000 foot descent through the canyon. And finally, a mostly flat hike out with a steep 400' climb to the Left Fork Trailhead.
Time: It takes 6-10 hours to complete the course. (It took me 7 hours, 50 minutes.)
Access: The adventure begins at Wildcat Canyon Trailhead and ends at Left Fork Trailhead.
Permit Requirement: You need to apply for and win a Zion Wilderness Permit and carry it with you.
Flash Flood Warning: Cancel your plans if there is a threat of rain.
When to Go: if you're a beginner like me, do NOT go when there is snow, ice, or heavy spring runoff. May through September is ideal. I went on May 1.
Download the Map
Start by downloading a map of the trail so you understand the direction of the trail and can associate waypoints with specific spots on the map.
AllTrails Pro has been a godsend on my Shana Takes a Hike adventures and I am certain I would not have found the trail to Russel Gulch without it. Download the app. Pay the fee. Hike with confidence. (I don't get any money for these referrals - I just wholeheartedly love this app!)
Here's a link to The Subway Top Down trail on AllTrails, where it is named Wildcat Canyon Trail, The Subway Trail and The Left Fork of North Creek.
Download the map. Read through all the waypoint descriptions. Read them again. And again.
Study the Trail
Keeping a calm mind is critical when you are doing stressful activities. When you are thrown into situations without context and no expectations, everything is more stressful. And stress causes people to make rash decisions.
That's why it is absolutely critical to study the trail map, trail descriptions, and photos of key milestones. Yes, it eliminates some of the surprise and wonder along the trail. But it also eliminates losing the trail, climbing into a bad situation you can't climb out of, and sleeping in the park overnight.
Here are two sites that were incredibly helpful to me:
CitrusMilo.com - Joe's Guide to Zion National Park, The Subway Top-Down Route via Russell Gulch. I specifically like this site because it includes photos of each waypoint to give you a visual as you follow along the route description.
CanyoneeringUSA.com - Tom's Utah Canyoneering Guide to The Subway from the Top. This site is awesome because it provides incredibly detailed route descriptions that came in handy a couple times. Plus it provides mileage and time estimates, which is nice to use for benchmarking, although my mileage and time ended up being longer than what he lays out in this table. My time was 7:50 and I think I did closer to 10 miles. I just know my Apple Watch died at 8.5 miles and I was still a ways off from the final ascent.
I read through each of these descriptions thoroughly. I read through both of them a second time, cross-referencing the descriptions with the photos on CitrusMilo, and taking notes about key things to look out for.
Handwrite Notes about the Trail
The night before I left, I went through the descriptions again and hand-wrote trail notes on a piece of paper I took with me. Yes, that seems old school. Yes, my hand was cramping after the first couple bullet points because I never write anymore. Yes, issue the Nerd Alert.
But it's been proven that handwriting notes helps you remember things better. My notes helped me to find the trail at the end of the slickrock, to remember when to don my wetsuit, and to know which rappel had the bad landing into churning water that hid the slippery bowling ball rocks beneath.
Plus, the paper notes helped me save battery life on my iPhone. I kept the paper in my pocket for easy access during the first and last parts of the trail, and referred to a picture of my notes on my iPhone during the water portion of the trail when the notes were in my dry pack.
I know it seems like overkill, but if you are doing this trail solo, you MUST be overly prepared. And knowing what to expect along the way meant that I was prepared and calm for each obstacle.
Step 5: Take a Rappelling Class
The rappelling part of the hike is what had me most concerned, mostly because I had never done it by myself. Thank goodness for T.J. at Adventure Plus in St. George!
I found Adventure Plus when searching for a place to rent neoprene socks and water boots for Kanarra Falls. Turns out T.J. has owned and operated Adventure Plus since 2000, offers canyoneering courses, and rents canyoneering gear. Jackpot!
His canyoneering classes are 2-day events and the next one wasn't scheduled until May 11. But because I was worried about the rappelling part only, he was able to do a private ropes class for me.
Learning The Ropes
I met T.J. at his shop, shortly before he closed up at 6:00 pm. He told me everything I needed to do The Subway Top Down hike. I purchased the gear and then he took me out to a cliff just minutes from his shop to practice.
The cliff is about 30' high, the same height as the highest rappel in The Subway. And like The Subway, it already had two anchor bolts in place. T.J. showed me how to use webbing to create a V-shaped two-point load sharing anchor. He walked through how to loop the webbing through the anchors, tie the knots, and attach the quick link.
I stood there, on the edge of this 30' cliff, on a day so windy it was sometimes hard to hear what T.J. was saying, with gusts strong enough to make you lose your footing at times, watching him deftly tying knots, knowing I would be climbing over that edge in moments ... and I suddenly had a sinking feeling, that this was a terrible idea, that my life in just 2.5 days would rely completely on me remembering how to correctly tie these knots, and that Deb was right, maybe it IS stupid of me to think I can do this by myself, and maybe I should just do the bottom up approach.
Breathe.
T.J. then handed me the webbing and had me repeat the same knots he had just made on a second set of anchors. He gave me a couple pointers and reminders along the way, what to look for, how to test the integrity of the knots. I was calmer. We took it all apart and did it again.
Then he had me look at the webbing closely. He showed me what to look for when I was in the canyon. Is the webbing discolored? Is it fraying? Is it tied wrong? If any of those things, take it off and tie my own.
Next, he showed me how to thread the rope through my figure 8 device and attach it to my carabiner. In my head, I assumed there would be a device that would catch you if you let go. Nope. It's just me sliding down a rope, hanging on. I started to doubt everything again.
Then he had me back up to the edge. I was shocked at how much friction is created by this set-up, to the point that I had to strain backwards, pushing my legs against the ground with a ton of force, just to back up from the anchors to the ledge. I instantly felt more confident when I felt how much control I had over the rope and the speed, and that my life wouldn't be dependent on me being able to grip the rope hard enough.
And down I went!
I backed over the edge and made my way down. Unhooked at the bottom, climbed around the side and back up to the top.
I did this four times. I tied the webbing one more time. I took video of what the V-shaped anchor should look like. I took pictures of what my rappelling rope and device should look like (and saved it as my screensaver as a reminder).
I felt good.
I felt confident.
I went home that night and, for the first time since I won the permit, I knew with 100% certainty that I was ready for the Top Down approach. Let's do this!
Step 6: Create a Packing List
Now, let's ensure you show up to the trail with everything you need. Here is the packing list I created to make sure I had everything I needed. I also reviewed this list with T.J. at Adventure Plus to get his feedback.
There are a few things I packed, but didn't need - but they were items for insurance, so it was good I didn't need them. Other than unneeded insurance, I didn't take anything I didn't use, so that was also good to not carry unnecessary extra weight. So I think this list will work well for you also.
I did the hike on May 1. The forecast was dry (yay!) and HOT. The day started in the low 60's in St. George with a high in the low 90's, so the weather in the canyon was probably 5-10 degrees cooler than that.
What I Wore
tank top + thin long-sleeved shirt (both quick-dry material)
quick-dry shorts
canyoneering boots (rented from Adventure Plus)
two pairs of socks (didn't want blisters from hiking in rented boots)
ponytail holder
If you go on a cold day, you may want to also pack a light jacket, gloves, hat, etc. Even on a hot day, I was chilly after changing out of my wetsuit and was glad to have a dry long-sleeved shirt with me.
What I Packed
Rented Gear
I rented the following items from Adventure Plus. Total Cost = $75.
Rodcle Consusa 45L Canyoneering Backpack - my backpack is way too small, so T.J. rented this one to me. It's HUGE and heavy (nearly 4 lbs) compared to what I'm used to, but was great! It's made of non-absorbent materials and has drainage holes for water to flow out after swims. It also has a super convenient zippered lid pocket, also with drainage, to keep things I needed quick access to, like my iPhone.
Canyoneering Boots - this is now my third time renting canyoneering boots (recall Kanarra Falls and The Narrows) and it's amazing how well these boots grip the slippery rocks under water. Highly recommend for water hikes!
Neoprene Socks - kept my little piggies perfectly warm!
Purchased Gear
I purchased the following from Adventure Plus. Total cost = $196.
70' Rope - you technically need just 60' of rope, but I would rather have too much than too little.
Gloves - to prevent rope burn
10' of webbing - I took this in case one of the anchors in the canyon was faulty. Fortunately, I didn't need it and, although I hate packing things I don't use, it's necessary insurance.
8mm Quick Link - also did not need this, but it's essential to rappel, and if there isn't one in the canyon, I'd have been stuck. Necessary insurance.
Other Items
National Park Pass
Subway Permit
iPhone with a downloaded AllTrail map
Waterproof floating iPhone case
GoPro
GoPro Head Strap
GoPro Handle - ended up not using this
Hand-written directions
2 Nalgene Water Bottles, total of 96 oz of water
4 CLIF bars (only needed 2)
Nuts & raisins
4 Wet Wipes - a harmful bacteria has been discovered in the water in Zion Park; hikers are instructed to pack in their own water as water filters are ineffective against the bacteria. So I packed wet wipes to clean my hands after changing out of my wetsuit and before eating, and also to wipe down the rims of my water bottles before drinking out of them again.
Hand Sanitizer - have I mentioned how OCD I am about keeping my hands clean?
4 Band-Aids - thank God I didn't need these. How miserable to hike with blisters!
Sunscreen
Ball Cap - wore this for shade on the last section of the hike. It was soaked. :)
Dry Pack - kept my food, Band-Aids, and car key in here. I also put my shirt and tank top in there when I donned the wetsuit; I was so glad to have dry shirts to wear when I changed out of the wetsuit. In retrospect, I'd have put my ball cap and water bottles in there too during the water portion of the hike.
Car Key
All of this together came to 423 pounds. Kidding. I definitely travel light through life and this is by far the heaviest pack I've ever carried on a hike. There was no bathroom scale in my Airbnb to see how heavy it was, but I'm guessing 25-30 lbs.
What I Packed to Leave in The Car
I read online somewhere that a pro move is to pack some post-hike goodies to leave in the car. Here's what I packed:
Cooler with ice
Water - what a treat cold water was!
Apple
4 hard-boiled eggs
Dry clothes - didn't need these. I was dry by the time I got back.
Flip Flops - it was sooo nice to ditch the neoprene socks and canyoneering boots and let my water shriveled toes dry out!
Step 7: Book a Shuttle
Because you're starting the hike at Wildcat Canyon Trailhead (the top) and ending the hike at Left Fork Trailhead (the bottom), you'll need to leave a car at the bottom and catch a ride to the top.
Ideally, you'll have a friend nearby with a second car who is reliable enough to pick you up early in the morning. But if not, or if you're traveling solo like I am, then you'll need to find another option.
One actual option is to hitchhike. And I'm not just saying this. It is actually one of the options recommended by the National Park Service. I got to the trailhead around 6:15 am and saw a few cars pass by in the right direction. Hypothetically, one of them could have given me a ride, but I wasn't willing to bank on it, especially in this era of COVID. I wanted a sure bet.
I called several shuttle companies in Springdale and the prices and times and pick-up locations were all over the place! They ranged from $135 to $200, starting at 8:00 am or 9:30 am (which was WAY later than I wanted to start). One even told me I needed to meet them in Springdale and follow them to the trailhead. That didn't make any sense at all!
Finally, I called Red Rock Shuttle at 435-635-9104. It was so easy! They picked me up at Left Fork Trailhead shortly after 6:30 am and dropped me off at Wildcat Canyon Trailhead at 7:00 am - exactly the time I hoped to start my hike. And the kicker? The price was just $30. Perfect!!
Step 8: Prepare Your Body
And now we are just a day out from go time! I can't stress enough how important it is for your body and your mind to be ready to go. Some tips that have worked well for me before doing big hikes.
Go to bed early.
I made sure I was in bed by 8:00 pm because I was going to be up at 4:00 am the next morning. You want to be sharp on your hike!
Drink a lot of water.
Yes, everyone knows to drink water while they are hiking. But it's critical to be well-hydrated before you even start. I made sure to drink a gallon of water on the day before my hike.
Eat healthy.
You don't want to run out of gas on the trail. Carrying a 30 lb pack is exhausting - I was surprised at how big of a drain it was on my body! So be sure to eat healthy the week before. This isn't the time to start a diet or eat anything that might disagree with you.
That morning, I was up early to make a big breakfast that would stick with me - coffee, water, and four scrambled eggs with a little cheese. I wasn't hungry at all that morning and had plenty of energy.
Step 9: Pick Up Your Permit
Hope you've been saying your prayers all week for good weather! A tiny bit of rain, even miles away, can cause flash flooding in the canyons, so pay attention to the weather a couple days before your permit date, and especially pay attention to the forecast for your permit date.
The day before your hike, you need to pick up your permit from the Zion National Park Visitor Center, located at 1 Zion Park Blvd, Springdale, UT. They are open from 8:00 am to 7:00 pm, but doublecheck this before you go! I strongly urge you to arrive as early as possible so you can get a parking spot; the visitor lot generally fills up by 9:00 am. Once you arrive, go to the Wilderness Desk to obtain your permit.
To get your permit, you'll need your vehicle make, model, color, and license plate number, plus $15 for the actual permit.
The check-in process was no joke, which I totally appreciate. She asked whether I was doing top down or bottom up.
Me: top down.
Her: number of people in your party?
Me: one.
Her: (raising her eyebrows) you're going alone?
Me: yes.
Her: (appropriately suspicious of my experience level) have you ever done canyoneering before?
Me: yes, but only on a tour, this is my first time solo.
Her: (inwardly groaning, initiating a rapid fire of questions) do you know how to rappel? How long is your rope? Do you have a wetsuit? How thick is it? Do you have a map? Have you studied the map? Have you read route descriptions?
Thank God I had answers to all her questions which means that I had prepared well. She seemed satisfied with my preparation.
She asked for emergency contact info and my estimated start time. She was glad to know I was starting early. I was glad to know they have enough info to call someone if my car is still there a couple days later.
I asked her about the weather to make sure she didn't have information I missed. She said everything looked great for Saturday (yay!) but that it was supposed to rain on Sunday. I totally lucked out and was so grateful everything worked out for me weather-wise!
She gave me my permit and instructed me to carry it with me in case anyone asked for it along the trail. (Nobody did.) And she gave me a card to place on the dashboard of my car.
It took about 15 minutes total to pick up the permit. I called my brother on the way back to my Airbnb to let him know he should definitely answer any calls with a 435 area code the next day. :)
Step 10: Call Your Mom
Ok, you have done everything you can do to prepare. One last step: call your parents the day before, but maybe don't tell them what you'll be doing. :)
Then immediately call your emergency contact and tell them EXACTLY what you'll be doing. Give them phone numbers. And estimated times. And a link to the AllTrails map you'll be using.
Here are the numbers I shared with my brother:
Zion Park Info - (435) 772-3256
Wilderness Info - (435) 772-0170
Park Emergencies - (435) 772-3322
Nearest Med Clinic - (435) 772-3226
For the record, my brother wasn't concerned at all. He is a professional safety director in the agriculture industry, plus a volunteer firefighter and EMT. I had called him earlier in the week to tell him about my rappelling class and he thought it was pretty cool and shared his own stories about lessons in and actual use of rappelling. His only question was, "Can I have your gear if you don't use it again?"
When I told my brother I listed him as my emergency contact, he was fine with it. He knew I had prepared well. We also agreed it's best to tell Mom and Dad after the fact. :) It's crazy that my parents still worry about me at my age, but also, I'm very fortunate to have parents who still worry about me at my age.
Go Time.
That's a wrap, folks. If you've done everything I have on this list, you should be feeling pretty good about your hike about now.
You should be confident and well-equipped, which will leave your mind free to truly enjoy this epic hike. Hope you love it as much as I did. And hope your sense of accomplishment is as great as mine.
Use the form at the bottom of this page to let me know if this list was helpful to you and whether you have any other tips that helped you prepare. And feel free to reach out with any questions. Happy to share the little I know.
And with that ... sleep well and good luck!
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